Skiing in the polar night

What the polar night means

Tromsø is so far north that the sun stays below the horizon from about 27 November to 15 January. It is not pitch black around the clock, though. In the middle of the day there are a few hours of twilight, when the sky shifts from deep blue to pink and back again. The mountains around the city mean the sun takes a little longer to appear again in the centre.

Blue light at midday

On weekdays the slopes open at 12:00, and at weekends at 10:00. Come early and you get the blue light from the top, with the snow, the fjord and the mountains all in the same cold colour. Photographers wait all day for that moment, and it is just as beautiful when you are skiing through it.

Under floodlights until closing

When the twilight fades, the floodlights take over. Bamseløypa, Turløypa, Slalåmløypa and the terrain park are lit, so you can see the snow and ski as confidently as in daylight. On weekdays we are open until 20:30, so an evening session fits just as well after a day of sightseeing as after work.

From the top you see Tromsø lit up across the sound, with all the lights of the island. Check lifts and slopes before you leave, so you know what is open.

Goggles and clothes for the dark

Dark goggles are made for sunshine. In the evening you see more through a clear or yellow lens. If you do not have one, rent goggles and a helmet at the rental shop. It is colder without the sun, so dress in layers with wool closest to the skin and bring a spare neck warmer and dry mittens. Our guide to what to wear skiing in Tromsø has more.

Stay warm all evening

Take a break indoors when your fingers start to stiffen, and have something hot at Parken before your last runs. To get back, take the bus from Kroken, which runs every half hour in the evening, or book a taxi to your door.

Learn to ski in the dark

The ski school teaches into the evening. On weekdays the last lesson starts at 19:00. It is a great way to try skiing on a Tromsø holiday, because the rest of the day stays free for other plans. Book a private lesson and your instructor will take you from the magic carpet to the lift under the floodlights.

And perhaps the northern lights

On clear evenings in the dark season, the aurora can appear over the mountains while you are on the slope. Our guide to skiing and northern lights in one evening explains how to give yourself the best chance.

When the light returns

From mid January the days grow longer every week. In February and March the days are long and bright, and the evenings still dark enough for the northern lights. See the opening hours for the whole season.